Remodel from the subfloor up
We take out the old tub, tile and underlayment and start from a clean base.

Kitchens, bathrooms, entries and basements. Most jobs start with tearing out 1990s tile.
A typical bathroom job here replaces a 1990s whirlpool tub and small shower with a larger walk-in shower, or swaps an original ceramic floor for porcelain. We plan the floor, shower walls, niche and curb together so grout lines carry from one surface to the next. Before anything is set, we mark where full tiles land and where the cuts go. A curbless shower takes more planning, since the floor framing may need to be lowered to get the slope.
In a kitchen, the floor often runs into the foyer, mudroom or powder room. We dry-lay the tile to check cuts at doorways and where it meets wood, and we measure the new floor height so the dishwasher and doors still clear. Walls are often a little out of square, so we start the layout where you'll look first.
Basement remodels are common in Naperville, and moisture is the first thing we check. Damp spots, white powder on the slab, cracks or a musty smell mean the source needs fixing by a waterproofing or foundation contractor before we tile. Once the slab is dry and solid, we patch cracks, level low spots and set the tile.
Mudrooms and garage entries get wet boots and salt all winter. We use porcelain with a textured finish, a grout that's easy to clean, and a transition low enough not to trip on. An uncoupling membrane under the tile handles slab or subfloor movement. In showers we add a separate waterproof membrane.
Tile needs a stiff, flat base. We check for bounce, cracks and high or low spots, and fix the framing or subfloor when needed. Large tile needs a flatter surface than small tile, so we level first, comb the mortar in one direction, back-butter large pieces and lift a tile now and then to check that it's fully bedded.
We leave flexible movement joints at walls, inside corners and doorways, since grout cracks there. Cement grout is fine in most rooms. Epoxy or high-performance grout resists stains in kitchens and showers. Stone gets sealed, and all setting materials are mixed and applied to the manufacturer's instructions.

Kitchens, bathrooms, entries, mudrooms and heated floors.
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Stores, offices, salons and other business spaces, scheduled around your hours.
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Shower walls and floors, waterproofing, niches and benches.
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We take out the old tub, tile and underlayment and start from a clean base.
You see where cuts land before any mortar is mixed.
We pull tiles during the job to confirm full mortar contact.
Basement slabs get looked at for damp and cracks before we quote.
Start once you have a rough scope. Send room measurements, a few photos and the tile you like, and we can flag repairs, special orders and plumbing work before your install date.
For kitchen floors, 12x24 or 24x24 is common. In a bathroom, larger tile works on walls, while 2-inch mosaics or small tile on a shower floor follow the slope to the drain. Large tile needs a very flat floor.
Sometimes, if the old tile is fully bonded and flat. Usually we remove it, since tiling over adds height at doors and toilets and hides problems underneath.
If water gets in, have the source fixed first. That's foundation or drainage work. A tile membrane protects the floor from slab movement and minor vapor, and it won't stop a leak.
Salt stains grout and grit scratches polished finishes. Use textured porcelain, a darker grout and a good mat, and sweep before you mop. Stone needs sealing and pH-neutral cleaners.
The room, rough dimensions, photos from a few angles, any past water damage, and the tile you like if you've picked one. Tell us about stairs, heated floors or shower work.

Call us or send a few details. You don’t need measurements yet.